Most of Owens’s orchards are surrounded by mature timber. On this mountain, he has three isolated orchards, each about a half mile apart. Luckily, infrastructure is good, as the landowner built good roads at his own expense. Anthony Owens’s decision to go organic wasn’t popular with many of his fellow growers back in 2000. But his current standing is quite good. He is president of the Blue Ridge Apple Growers Association and the only organic producer in the group. Owens believes in organics—he thinks organic fruit is healthier—but growing organic produce is like climbing a wall with one hand tied […]