Counoise grapes, from Tablas Creek Vineyard Every profession has its rebels, and grape growers are no exception. Look at Dean Morrison, for example. He and his wife, Verdie, operate Morrison Lane, the family-owned vineyard and winery in Walla Walla, Washington, where deep, dark red Cabernets and Merlots are the mainstay of many vintners. But the Morrisons don’t follow the traditional path trod by most Walla Walla wineries. They concentrate instead on varieties that are rarely named on a label, growing and bottling notable, albeit unusual, vintages like Counoise and Cinsault. Morrison Lane’s offbeat wines stand out from the crowd, but […]