In France, the appellation or AOC (appellation d’origine controlee) is more than just a definition of name or an indication of origin. The AOC identifies specific criteria for the area, including grape varieties grown, yields, alcoholic content of the wine, and viticultural and winemaking methods, explained Stephane Laborie, graduate student from France who is ­currently studying at the University of California, Berkeley. He noted that if criteria are not met, such as having too high an alcoholic content, Bordeaux cannot be used on the label. This heavy-handed authority, which prohibits some irrigation practices and modern techniques like using hail netting, […]